By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

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**Fall in Love With Hatch Chiles: Smoky-Sweet Flavor of New Mexico**

Cooking creates all kinds of wonderful and comforting smells, whether it’s sugar cookies in the oven or a hearty stew on the stovetop. But for me in fall, there’s nothing quite like the smoky-sweet scent of Hatch chiles roasting over an open flame or the grates of a hot grill. The aroma is intoxicating, so intense as it wafts through the air that you can almost taste it.

And when you actually lay your hands on peppers that have been so blistered by heat that the skin slips off as easily as a too-big pair of mittens? Expect a rush of endorphins. The seasonal delicacy adds a kick of flavor to so many different dishes—everything from stews and sauces to tamales, burritos, enchiladas, and chile rellenos—it’s hard to know where to start.

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### My First Encounter With Hatch Chiles

I first encountered the long, skinny green pepper grown in New Mexico’s Hatch Valley during a trip to Santa Fe in 2010 for a food writers conference. After the gathering, my husband and I traveled to Albuquerque to do some hiking, cowboy boot shopping, and get our fill of traditional New Mexico cuisine—a fusion of Spanish, Native American, and Mexican ingredients and techniques.

Mild to spicy red and green chile peppers, including Pueblo, Anaheim and Chimayo chiles, are defining ingredients in many regional dishes. But Hatch peppers—the term for any chile grown in the Hatch Valley—are by far the most popular variety. It’s the official state vegetable of New Mexico (even though chiles are actually a fruit), and in 2023, the smoky, mouthwatering smell of them roasting was designated the state’s official aroma.

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### The Aroma & Experience

As we wandered around the famed Rail Yards Market, our noses quickly caught a whiff of the pod-type chiles being roasted in large steel cylinder cages, rotating over an open flame. It takes only a few minutes to char the tough skin and roast the meat inside to a buttery, rich flavor. But the smoky, popcorn-like aroma lingers and lingers.

We heard them, too. The chiles crackle, pop, and then hiss as the skin blackens over the sizzling flame and begins to split as water inside turns to steam.

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### What Makes Hatch Chiles Special?

Ranked No. 1 in chile production in the U.S., New Mexico grows about 3/4 of the country’s chile peppers. In 2023 alone, the state produced about 46,750 tons of Hatch and other chile peppers, amounting to around $41 million in sales. The vast majority—88%—were harvested green.

Planted in April, Hatch chiles are harvested from August through mid- to late October. Many are picked while still immature and green, but plenty are also allowed to turn red on the vine, which makes them spicier.

What makes Hatch chiles so special is the area’s unique climate and rich volcanic soil. The Hatch Valley sits high in the mountains of southern New Mexico, enjoying hot days, cool nights, and lots of sunshine. That imparts the chiles with a distinctive bold and earthy flavor that can’t be replicated.

Both red and green chiles can be turned into salsas or sauces; whether you opt for red or green, or go “Christmas” (a mix of both), is personal preference.

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### New Mexican Cuisine in Pittsburgh

Locally, you can find New Mexican cuisine made with Hatch chiles at TacoCat on East Ohio Street on the North Side. Along with Hatch red and green salsas, Chef Chris Acosta’s menu features green chile chicken, red chile pork tacos and burritos, and a green chile burger with braised pork, egg, and pickled veggies.

Acosta, a Pittsburgher since his teens, grew up in Phoenix, Ariz., and spent summers in Las Cruces, N.M., at his grandparents’ restaurant, Gil’s, a former gas station. Gilbert, his grandfather, started working in the fields of Hatch Valley at age six, so he knew every part of the process—from planting seeds to roasting the peppers after harvest.

“That smell to me is wholly intoxicating, full of emotion, memory and ancestry,” Acosta says. When the pandemic unfolded, he found comfort reminiscing about waking up at his grandma’s house, smelling Hatch green chile as part of whatever she was cooking, and then enjoying huevos con chorizo y papas (eggs with potatoes, chorizo, and homemade tortillas).

“To me, that was love. As we pass on these traditions to Pittsburgh, I think it equates very well with pierogies or Primanti Brothers. We want to make [New Mexican cooking] as iconic as those food offerings here in Pittsburgh.”

Since he couldn’t find anyone locally making the foods he’d grown up on, he decided to “package that love in between two corn tortillas,” and share it through New Mexican pop-ups. “Then they would feel that love and hopefully that would change their day,” he says.

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### Finding Fresh Hatch Chiles in Pittsburgh

While canned and jarred chiles are easy to find in most grocery stores, **fresh Hatch chiles**—which are low in calories and higher in vitamin C than oranges—can be hard to find in Pittsburgh. Freshly roasted chiles are even tougher to come by now that Reyna Foods in the Strip District isn’t roasting them this year. (They do have some frozen Hatch chiles from 2024.)

However, you can find the peppers over the next few weeks at specialty markets:

– **Fresh Market in Mt. Lebanon** ($2.49/pound)
– **Whole Foods** ($4.99 for a 2-pound bag with 11-13 peppers)

Or, do as my oldest sister Kathy does: order a bushel or two of fresh chiles, or bags of flash-frozen, chopped chiles direct from the Hatch Valley.

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### Roasting and Storing Hatch Chiles

On a recent Tuesday, I helped my sister roast two huge boxes of mild and medium chiles—50 pounds in total—on a grill on her deck.

We’d planned to can them, but because chile peppers are a low-acid food, they must be processed in a pressure canner to kill Clostridium botulinum spores. Since that’s one kitchen appliance missing from my pantry (for good reason!), we opted to freeze them instead.

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#### **How to Roast Hatch Chiles at Home**

If you buy frozen Hatch chiles, they are likely already cooked, seeded, and chopped. If you buy fresh, you’ll need to roast them to enhance the flavor and blister the skin for easy peeling.

Most of us don’t have a rotating metal drum for charring chiles, but there are several easy methods:

– **Over a Gas Flame or Campfire:** Spear and heat them like marshmallows, turning until blistered.
– **Under a Broiler:** Place on a baking sheet and broil, turning frequently until charred.
– **On a Grill:** Fire up a charcoal or gas grill, and place peppers directly on clean grates. Flip regularly with tongs until evenly roasted.

*After roasting, place chiles in a ziplock bag to steam a few minutes. Cool, then slip off the skins. If freezing, don’t worry about peeling now—they’ll peel easily when defrosted for cooking.*

*Wash each pod thoroughly and pat dry before roasting to ensure proper blistering.*

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**Pro Tip:** Ordering fresh chiles from New Mexico cost us $70 per bushel plus $60 shipping at [hatch-green-chile.com](https://www.hatch-green-chile.com). We chose our heat level: mild, medium, hot, or extra-hot. You can also order already roasted and frozen chiles (whole or chopped) from [The Hatch Chile Store](https://www.hatchgreenchilestore.com) ($11.25–$15/lb) or [Young Guns Chile](https://www.yghatchchile.com) in Hatch, N.M.

**Storage:** Roast within a few days of purchase. Pack into airtight containers or freezer bags and freeze. They’ll keep their smoky flavor for months.

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### Recipes: Make the Most of New Mexico’s Signature Green Chile Sauce

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#### **Vegetarian Hatch Green Chile Sauce**
*PG tested*

You can use mild or hot chiles to make this flavorful condiment. If the heat is too much, cool your mouth with something sweet like honey or a bit of sour cream. To make a meat sauce, brown 1/2 lb. ground pork or beef, then add to the pot.

**Ingredients:**
– 4 cups vegetable broth or water
– 2 cups chopped, roasted Hatch green chile
– 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
– 2 tsp minced white onion
– 1 clove garlic
– 1/2 tsp salt
– 1/4 tsp white pepper
– 2 tbsp cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tbsp water
– Additional salt and pepper to taste

**Directions:**
Combine all ingredients except cornstarch in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce for 10–15 minutes. Add cornstarch mixture, stir, and simmer 5–10 minutes until thickened and no raw cornstarch taste remains. Keeps up to 5 days in the fridge; freezes well. Add a little water when reheating if needed.

*Makes about 5 cups.*
*Adapted from “The Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook” by Cheryl and Bill Jamison (Lyons Press).*

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#### **Hatch Green Chile with Pork**
*PG tested*

Great for topping cheeseburgers, smothering enchiladas and burritos, or eating out of the bowl with a warm tortilla.

**Ingredients:**
– 2 lbs ground pork
– 1/2 cup chopped onions, optional
– 2 cloves garlic, minced
– 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
– 2 (14.5 oz) cans roasted diced tomatoes
– 2 lbs chopped, roasted Hatch chiles (about 12 whole)
– 4 cups water
– Salt and pepper, to taste
– Shredded cheese and chopped cilantro for garnish

**Directions:**
Brown pork in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions (if using) and garlic; sauté until soft. Push meat/veggies aside, mix flour into pan grease. Add tomatoes, chiles, and water. Season. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, simmer uncovered 30–60 min until thickened. Garnish with cheese/cilantro; serve with warm tortillas.

*Serves 8–10. (Kathy Trent, Emsworth)*

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#### **Denver’s Famous “Mexican” Hamburger**
*PG tested*

A burger smothered in refried beans, wrapped in a flour tortilla, and topped with pork green chile.

**Ingredients:**
– 1/2 tsp garlic powder
– Salt and pepper to taste
– 1 lb ground beef
– 1 1/2 cups warmed refried beans
– 2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese
– 4 cups green chile sauce
– 4 (10-inch) flour tortillas
– Shredded lettuce, diced tomatoes, crushed chicharrones for garnish

**Directions:**
Preheat broiler. Mix garlic powder, salt, pepper into beef; form 4 patties. Cook in hot skillet, 2.5 min per side. Warm tortillas, place on plates. Add beans, burger, green chile, cheese to each; fold over. Cover with grated cheese. Broil to melt. Spoon more green chile around plate. Garnish with lettuce, tomatoes, chicharrones.

*Serves 4. (Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette)*

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#### **Huevos Rancheros**
*PG tested*

A hearty vegetarian Mexican breakfast (or dinner) classic.

**Ingredients:**
– Vegetable or canola oil for frying
– 6 (5-inch) corn tortillas
– 12 eggs
– 2–3 cups vegetarian green chile sauce (see above)
– Shredded lettuce, chopped tomato, optional garnishes (cilantro, jalapeno, Cotija)
– Refried beans or Spanish rice, for serving

**Directions:**
Have paper towels ready. Heat 1/2 inch oil in skillet. Dip tortillas briefly in oil to soften; drain. Wipe out extra oil, fry eggs to desired doneness. Top tortillas with 2 eggs each. Pour 1/3–1/2 cup green chile sauce over each. Garnish and serve with beans or rice.

*Serves 6.
Adapted from “The Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook”.*

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#### **Smothered Burrito**
*PG tested*

**Ingredients:**
– 4 (7–8 inch) flour tortillas
– 4 cups warmed refried beans
– 2 cups grated cheddar cheese (plus extra for filling, if desired)
– 2 cups green chile sauce (vegetarian/meat)
– 1 large tomato, diced
– Shredded lettuce for garnish

**Directions:**
Warm tortillas (microwave wrapped in damp towel, or in oven wrapped in foil at 300°F for 15–20 min). Set oven to broil. Assemble burritos: place tortilla on plate, fill with 1 cup beans, some cheese if desired, roll snugly, seam side down. Top with 1/2 cup chile sauce and 1/2 cup cheese; broil until cheese melts. Garnish with lettuce and tomato.

*Serves 4. (Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette)*

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